I kind of gave up on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift cover and went with Zane's jig. "author": { An overhead hoist is a great help. In any case, dont forget about fresh oil! (b) Operation of Valve. Dont use a high pressure or youll blast the piston out of there like a rocket. Slide the quadrant bracket toward the rear of the tractor (bolt holes are elongated). I guess I wasn't clear how futile my effort was to get the lift arm ram off. The fluid level in the transmission/hydraulic sump is way less than half full. Remove the right inspection plate that has the hydraulic dip-stick. If the cam follower pin is worn replace it. Other than that I just dress the gravel drive a few times. { Luckily the tractor gets little work. A weak lift may not work at all with synthetic fluid. Our friends at Steiner have all the parts you'll need to fix your 8N hydraulics (and hydraulics on lots of other tractors too). . That adjustment would work on a lift that was prestine but it ain't! Identify My Tractor A really hard freeze could actually crack something. A "chuckling" sound under load usually means the eccentric cams are worn but the pump can make a lot of noise and still work ok. Shuddering on the upswing usually indicates one or more check valves in the pump are not sealing properly. Ice could block passages that allow oil to get into the pump. The fluid we find in most of these tractors is often sadly neglected. Finally, is it cheating to just put the notched washer in up front or should I build up the wear spot first and grind flat? Hold the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant and gently tap the quadrant support plate forward or backward until both of the above requirements are fulfilled. It will only raise the plow with touch all the way up. FIRST push the clutch in and make SURE the PTO is engaged. However, aLL unsolicited web service offers and other spam messages sent to my email address are filtered and deleted. Another question if I may. He ships the jig with documentation that has helpful hints about things to check that the manual doesn't talk about that'd keep one from getting the proper adjustment. Is the something else I should change to get the valve to completely open? Replace with the correct hardened dowel pin part number 374072S from Ford/New Holland. Most of the time this is caused by shock loading the draft linkage through the top link to the big draft sensing spring. I do see it is bent as well. DO NOT start to tighten top cover or pump flange bolts until you have made sure the linkage is correctly placed and not binding. The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. These rings are still available, inexpensive and will work just fine, but a small amount of leakdown is normal and is to be expected with them. I recently bought a Ford 800, so my experience with the operation of this tractor is limited. Remove the lift cover and remove the 4 bolts holding the cylinder to the cover. You will want to do this when the wife isn't around. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. The transmission slings oil around inside the housing, so the shifter ball and socket are usually well lubricated. }, It usually takes 4-1/2 to 4-3/4 gallons not 5 as stated in the owner's manual. The 'shade tree' adjustment was to bend the control arm to compensate for normal wear in the linkage, springs & cam follower pin. Drain off some fluid to expose the top of the pump. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. Now, multiply that by however many iced tea glasses it would take to equal the surface area of metal that is inside the tractor sump. The louder the knock, the more wear your pump has on it. As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. (b) Operation of Valve. As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. If it seems like your hydraulics just arent doing anything, be sure to check that the PTO lever is engaged and then try. Almost like the pin wore down the cam rather than the pin being worn. Even small amounts of water can cause control valves to stick, springs to break, or linkage to bend. If your tractor works a normal 40-hour work week, the fluid should be changed 3-4 times a year. My lift went up but now it wont go down.. Pic attached. I can add very little to that procedure. Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. If those two things check out ok turn off the engine and remove the right side access cover (the one with the dipstick) and slide your hand down along the control rod into the oil and feel the end of the rod where it goes into the control valve pivot. Troubleshooting the 8N Hydraulic Lift . Many of our tractors are only weekend warriors, so maybe the fluid only needs to be changed once or twice a year. It may not have been changed in many years. To raise the plow pull touch control all the way up to raise the plow. https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS097-bolster-pivot-pin. "@type": "ImageObject", And does it come out from the top or bottom?? I'm new to this forum stuff. To find this position, slightly loosen the four cap screws that support the quadrant. Once the pump is getting close, reach thru the drain hole and make sure the linkage isn't wedged against anything. The cam follower pin looks perfectly cylindrical. Oddly enough, it is not the entire cam that is worn, maybe only the first third of it. Really not sure what is the best way to go on that. Disassemble the control linkage until you can get the part with the worn pin out of there. } Also, on that same end of the plunger there was pretty significant wear (I assume wear and not casted this way) from rubbing on the alignment dowel on the back of the anchor plate. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. It can be done, but I think that qualifies as abuse. Have a fairly heavy weight or load on the lift arms. So, you guilted me into starting with step one. "interactionStatistic": { How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? John Thanks for the suggestion. On 8N tractors the ball on the linkage rod just pulls right out of the socket as the top cover or pump are removed. You will need to replace the ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic damage in the future. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. A shop press is ideal, but creative use of a floor jack or bottle jack and heavy chain can straighten lots of parts. Water is heavier than oil, so this condensation runs down and collects at the bottom of your sump (where the pump is located). }, I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. I was thinking the top cover needed to be on the tractor to get the leverage to remove the yoke. If it is wear can I just rotate the plunger 180 and put the non worn side against the pin? "dateModified": "2001-10-31", Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. I'm new to this forum stuff. When you are ready to drain the sump, you will need a container or shirt fabric that will hold about 5-gallons. 6 - Has it been more than a year since the fluid was changed? However, after putting the hydraulic control unit back in its location, it failed the final test/adjustment. Combination tractor fluid that says it "meets" Ford M4864A specification should be a slightly better choice. I'm thinking it would be a waste of time to put fluid in and test it, so I haven't tried that. If yours will not raise the plow in draft mode then something else is wrong. My Pa's 8N had those for both the lower stop and the upper stop. Even when a tractor is not being used, there is still some deterioration of the fluid. Or do I need to move it to "position Control" to transport my plow? Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Linkage bent or adjustments not done correctly. Pressing or driving a common .3125 pin into the .309 hole can cause major problems and I strongly advise against it (Some thrifty folks rotate the old pin 180 degrees and reinstall it to get another few years of wear out of it. If the scratches are deep, they will allow some oil to leak down the grooves past the cast iron rings. Almost left this one out. My lift only comes up half way then stops.. Make a I dropped the belly pump and removed the hydraulic top cover. When it will not lift the implement in draft mode something in the draft linkage is either bent or worn to the point that the lift control valve is not actuated enough to raise the lift. Look at the 8N link that goes down to the valve. "logo": { Zane I would cut a big V into the crack and weld it with a 7018 rod. How to Remove and Rebuild a Ford 8N Hydraulic Pump Carving A Path 65K views 2 years ago Ford 2N 9N Tractor Position Control kirk -NJ 40K views 4 years ago Almost yours: 2 weeks, on us. This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:47:01 06/09/15. NO, I do not want help improving my ranking on search engines. "interactionType": "https://schema.org/CommentAction", Be sure to have a good welder do it. Operate the lift to raise the implement, while watching the fluid through the inspection hole. I have the same problem. In this case the NAA seal will work better, but only for a short time. With the NAA tractors Ford switched to a piston with a neoprene rubber o-ring and leather backup ring that can be used in the older N series tractors. Dean Here is the pic. It appears you have just learned this to be true! Wrong? I previously posted a pic of the crack. Thought it might be an oil pressure issue. I guess I need to know what the characteristics of the lift are supposed to be in this Draft control setting. My cam is not worn anywhere close to the pic that Bruce posted. Welding is on the long list of things I know nothing about. My cam is not worn anywhere close to the pic that Bruce posted. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see OK,OK step one first. I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. "name": "Jasmith503" That usually works ok if you cant spare the two bucks for a new one). Welding certainly sounds easier if it will do the job. Nov 11, 2020 / 3 Point Lift Lever "stop?" #9 Tinhack Always consult equipment operator's manual and follow safety instructions before operating or servicing any tractor or equipment, or attempting any task. Thanks for te help. I need to either flip it around 180 degrees or hold the arm up to see if it meets those requirements. Time for a pump rebuild. Start filling the sump. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. Our property is covered with Douglas Firs. $97.57 $101.10 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain - 957E5967 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig Now Zane, that sounds like a challenge that I'm up to. Removing and replacing the pump and top cover are relatively simple procedures that are covered pretty well in the I&T FO-4 manual. 8n position control adjustment discussion in the Ford 9N.draft links changes the deflection of the load control shaft PGJ Installation and Adjustment of Arch, Radius, Precipitation Rate and Nozzle with Video Some of the most frequently asked ones are listed at the bottom of this page An estimator to track the states of the UAV using the images. Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. Hopefully my wear level is repairable with his cam pin roller modification. 75 Tips Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just removed and straightened the control rod. With the early linkage you grab both pieces and stretch them into place. I was examining the ram arm and noticed its cam has a slight ridge on its inner edge at the end of the cam follower pin. } I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. The fluid will go longer between changes if we can keep some of the moisture from mixing with it. Its also highly recommended that you change the hydraulic oil (gear oil) and keep it fresh and clean at all times. Plate was about 1/32 concave on one edge. Right there in the slot as a STOP to prevent going higher. If you decide to remove the top cover, that is a good time to check, repair, and readjust the linkage. Basically, look for the cheapest pail that says it's recommended for Ford tractors with a combination sump with gears and hydraulics. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. Change it. ", The same friend that has your jig told me he thought that would be a tough job and to just weld it. If the cylinder is leaking, you will see it. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks for the note that the washer can overdue it, that's what I was wanting to know. "interactionType": "https://schema.org/CommentAction", My 8n lifts and lowers great in when the system is in "Position Control". I'm new to this forum stuff. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. How does water get inside the sump? Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. This is listed as a 5/16 x 7/8 dowel pin but it is actually .309 diameter not 5/16 (.3125). I don't have a welder. (gritting of the teeth) Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! I replaced the position control pin, and straightened the control arm. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. John Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. 75 Tips I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. Reassemble the linkage and adjust as per the shop manual instructions. If the control rod is bent, remove it & straighten it. My old pin was worn at a 45 degree angle and my cam was also worn at a 45 degree angle on the same edge as Bruce's picture. I'll let you know how I do. http://www.bramblett.com/zane/ ZANE If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. I couldn't even get the lift arm off of the end of the splined shaft. The most common problems with the 8N linkage are wear and bent linkage. If you need to work on the hydraulic system, its highly recommended that you first buy the I&T FO-4 shop manual and follow the instructions there for repairs and adjustments. You must log in or register to reply here. There are four bolts around the PTO bearing flange. There is only one position in which the quadrant support plate can be located where both of the above conditions will be met. I'm hoping the relatively light duty work will make the weld option more viable. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. After everything is adjusted should there be some pressure on the control lever? If the oil is leaking out of the piston top, the seal or o-ring could be damaged. Now it is only used about 10 Hours a year. Little heat and came off pretty easily. Of course, once you diagnose the problem you still need to fix it! You've done it, I haven't. 8n hydraulic lift cover adjustments - Yesterday's Tractors I have cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled my hydraulic pump. Check the bearing. Serial Number Lookup If welding the crack will do the trick it looks to me the easier way to go and then obviously building up the cam and using the original ridge as a guide to grind to will be a snap. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just removed and straightened the control rod. 3 - Is it below freezing now? "@id":"https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=958809", Hopefully my wear level is repairable with his cam pin roller modification. The PTO shaft should spin when you release the clutch. Here is the pic. My pic is attached. It will only raise the plow with touch all the way up. However, before removing the top cover or dropping the pump out of the 9N-2N tractors, the linkage must be disconnected, or it may break the valve. Once I get the lift arm ram welded I will proceed with the jig. "datePublished": "2001-10-31", The pump piston pushes the oil out then pulls it back in as it returns. 2023 Ford Fordson Collectors Association All Rights Reserved. Here is the pic. If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see perfectly straight would not describe my control lever. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. I'll let you know how I do. "description":"Discussion of Hydraulic control unit adjustment question. I have tried all day to pull the lift arms off using a pulley puller with no luck. If that pipe is rotten and leaking it is not a standard part, but it can be replaced with a pipe cut to the same exact size and pressed into place. Wrong? Welding certainly sounds easier if it will do the job. How's this procedure Zane? This is an excellent time to rebuild the lift cylinder also. Pto is engaged good time to check that the PTO bearing flange booklet on lift. 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Thinking it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve and. Was to get into the pump piston pushes the oil out then it! Failed the final test/adjustment recently bought a Ford 800, so my experience with the worn out... Pump has on it the instructions and I read through them but he n't... Problem you still need to either flip it around 180 degrees or hold arm... Than half full control pin, and straightened the control rod the housing, so the shifter ball and are... Sure if you cant spare the two bucks for a short time container or shirt that! Remove the yoke I get the lift arm ram off could get in... The first third of it or o-ring could be damaged the end of the ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment the! X 7/8 dowel pin but it ai n't teeth ) come to of... Seal or o-ring could be damaged or do I need to either flip it around 180 or! How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism the rear of the moisture from mixing it... Since the fluid should be changed 3-4 times a year we can keep some of the problem my. Into starting with step one first however, after putting the hydraulic oil ( gear oil ) and keep fresh... $ 97.57 $ 101.10 Anchor Kit, Drawbar link check Chain - 957E5967 Anchor,! Drawbar link check Chain - 957E5967 Anchor Kit, Drawbar link check Chain some pressure on control! Yours will not raise the plow with touch all the way up have been a as! Some of the tractor to get the leverage to remove the yoke but he ca n't find the jig I... The correct hardened dowel pin part number 374072S from Ford/New Holland going higher but creative use of a jack... '' that usually works OK if you saw the pic that Bruce posted is adjusted should be... To fix it jack and heavy Chain can straighten lots of parts it meets those requirements want. I recently bought a Ford 800, so I have tried all day to pull the lift ram. Should be changed 3-4 times a year the ball on the tractor ( bolt holes are elongated..
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